Published on by Olivier Maupas-Sehikyan · Rings
Some commissions begin with a very simple sentence. A client came to see me at the workshop-boutique in Saint-Sébastien-sur-Loire, near Nantes, and told me, in essence: "I want a ring that stands out, but stays understated." Behind that request lay a real standard to meet. I designed this ring and then made it with my own hands, from the first pencil stroke to the last pass of the polishing tool.
A client, and a wish for a wide men's yellow gold ring
He knew exactly what he was looking for: a men's yellow gold ring wider than classic designs, with a commanding, resolutely modern form. He also wanted two baguette diamonds, those stones cut as elongated rectangles, with crisp lines and almost architectural facets. No frills, no busy pattern. Just generous metal and two flashes of light, perfectly placed.
We took the time to talk. I always ask a great many questions: how he wears his jewellery, which hand, which finger, what his everyday style is. Little by little, I understood that he did not simply want a beautiful object. He wanted a piece that suited him and would last. That wish for longevity guided every decision I made, from the choice of gold to the way the stones would be held.
From sketch to form: designing a bespoke men's ring
For a bespoke men's ring, the design stage is where everything is decided. I proposed a band 6 mm wide, in 18-carat yellow gold. That width gives presence on the finger without becoming heavy and bulky. The 18-carat gold, for its part, offers a lovely warm colour and a sturdy hold, well suited to a piece worn every day.
I showed him a hand-drawn sketch. We also discussed how to set the two diamonds: a channel setting or a flush (gypsy) setting. In both cases, the metal supports the stone rather than overpowering it. The client approved the design, and that was the moment the ring stopped being an idea and became a project.
From that sketch, I built the wax model. It is a stage I particularly enjoy, because you finally hold the form between your fingers, before the gold has even entered the picture. We check the proportions, the thickness, the comfort of the inside of the band. A wide ring is judged as much by feel as by eye.
From wax to gold: making a wide 18-carat gold ring
Next comes lost-wax casting, an ancient technique that I still find fascinating. The wax model is encased in a plaster mould. When the mould goes into the kiln, the wax disappears, leaving its exact imprint in the plaster. Molten gold is then injected into that empty space, and the wide 18-carat gold ring takes shape.
When it comes out of the mould, the piece is still raw. It bears the marks of the casting, a matt surface, a little excess metal. I cleaned it, trimmed it, then filed it patiently, detail by detail. It is precision work, with no shortcuts: every edge must be crisp, every curve even. Then came the polishing, in successive passes, until a mirror finish was achieved. At this stage, the yellow gold truly begins to speak.
I insist on carrying out every stage myself: the modelling, the casting, the filing, the setting and the polishing. This is not a pose. In my view, it is the only way to guarantee that the finished ring matches what I promised the client.
Setting the two baguette diamonds
Setting is the stage where one holds one's breath. A baguette diamond is demanding: its sharp corners and elongated shape leave no room for approximation. The setting must hold each stone perfectly securely, while still letting the light through so that it plays across the facets.
I adjusted the seat for each diamond, then closed the metal carefully around the stones. These natural baguette diamonds do not have the loud sparkle of a round stone. They offer a subtler, more graphic brilliance, very sought after today, which sits well with the restraint of the band. A final pass at the polishing wheel gave the piece its finished look.
Handing over the ring, and what it says
The day the client came back to the workshop, I placed the ring in front of him without a word. He looked at it for a moment, then slipped it on. I believe you can tell at once, from the expression on someone's face, whether a piece of jewellery is right. Here, it was. He told me that it expressed both his personal style and a lasting symbol of commitment. I did not try to add anything: those words said all that mattered.
Before handing it over, I carried out one last quality check: the security of the settings, the evenness of the surfaces, the comfort on the finger. A size adjustment remains possible if needed, as a ring this wide can call for a few tweaks after the first few days of wear.
This men's yellow gold baguette diamond ring is a piece I love deeply, because it brings together everything I seek in my work: a clear brief, a thoughtful design, demanding handwork and a client who recognises his jewel the moment he wears it. It is original, handcrafted, unapologetically masculine in character, and made to last long after us.
If you carry in your mind the idea of a piece of jewellery that reflects you, wide or slender, understated or bolder, you are most welcome at the workshop in Saint-Sébastien-sur-Loire, near Nantes. We will take the time to talk it through, simply, over a sketch and a few samples. I would be delighted to imagine your next one-of-a-kind piece with you.
