Published on by Olivier Maupas-Sehikyan · Rings
Some commissions begin with an object, others with an image. This one began with a four-leaf clover. A client came to see me at the workshop in Saint-Sébastien-sur-Loire, near Nantes, with an idea that was simple to put into words and delicate to draw: a ring that carries good luck, to accompany a marriage proposal.
A proposal in the shape of a clover: meeting at the workshop
That day, we talked at length before I so much as picked up a pencil. My client was not looking for a catalogue design. He wanted a bespoke engagement ring that could express hope, love and commitment without a single word. The four-leaf clover came to us almost immediately: a symbol of good fortune that everyone recognises, and one that lends the promise a particular gentleness.
I was not present at the proposal itself, of course. But I saw the emotion of the man who was about to make it. It was not simply a matter of giving a piece of jewellery. It was a matter of placing, on the finger of the person he loves, a wish for prosperity for them both. A confidence of this kind carries a responsibility: it sets the standard before the first line is even drawn.
The Ceylon sapphire and the diamonds: choosing the stones
Everything began with the centre stone. I carefully selected a Ceylon sapphire, of a deep, vivid blue, the kind that holds the eye without startling it. By tradition, the sapphire evokes sincerity and harmony. For a marriage proposal, it is hard to imagine a better ally.
Around it, I chose the diamonds one by one. Their white brilliance answers the blue of the sapphire, and they recall what one also hopes for in a couple: clarity and strength. As for the metal, white gold seemed the obvious choice. Its cool, luminous tone lets the sapphire speak and extends the sparkle of the diamonds, where a warmer metal would have altered the balance of colours.
From drawing to wax: giving the clover its form
The drawing was the most delicate part. A clover that is too pronounced becomes a mere decorative motif, while one that is too discreet disappears. I wanted the four leaves to be legible at first glance, yet supple enough to follow the curve of the finger. So I made numerous sketches, playing with the curves and with the way each leaf would catch the light.
Once the design had been approved by my client, I moved on to the wax. This is where the jewel takes on volume, and where one finally sees whether the idea holds in three dimensions. Each leaf was reworked, refined and compared with the others until the whole piece seemed to breathe. Then came the casting: the wax gave way to white gold, and the ring began to truly exist, still raw, but already recognisable.
Setting and polishing: the hour of precision
Setting requires a particular calm. The sapphire had to be fitted so as to sit exactly at the centre of the clover, neither too high nor too deep. The diamonds were then set around it, one by one, held by small claws or grains of metal that are closed down with patience. One hurried movement, and the whole symmetry suffers.
Then the polishing did its work. It removes the marks left by the tools, softens the edges and reveals the true lustre of the metal. It is often at this moment that I know whether the sapphire and diamond engagement ring is ready: when the light glides over each leaf without ever catching on a flaw. Every hour spent on this piece answered a single intention: that it should be worthy of the occasion.
Presenting the engagement ring
When my client came back to collect it, I set the box down on the counter and let him look. He took his time, turned the ring between his fingers, and smiled. In such moments, I am happy to stay silent. The jewel speaks, and what it says now belongs to the one who takes it away.
I do not know what followed in any detail, and that is as it should be. I know only what this ring holds: a four-leaf clover set with diamonds, a Ceylon sapphire at its centre, and the wish for happiness of a couple about to begin a new life. This project reminded me why I love this craft. I do not merely make jewellery; I take a very small part in love stories.
Come and talk to me at the workshop
If you, too, are carrying an idea for an engagement ring in Nantes or the surrounding area, whether a symbol, a stone or a memory, come and talk to me at the workshop in Saint-Sébastien-sur-Loire. We shall take the time to look together at what your story can become in gold and gemstones. There is no obligation: a conversation is all it takes to begin.
