Published on by Olivier Maupas-Sehikyan · Rings
Some commissions make me want to reach for my sketchbook before the conversation has even ended. This was one of them. A couple came to see me at the workshop in Saint-Sébastien-sur-Loire with a very clear idea: to mark a wedding anniversary with an Art Deco ring made for them, and for no one else.
A Request Born of a Wedding Anniversary
Designing and creating jewellery is far more than a profession for me, it is a passion. And sometimes a client's story feeds that passion even further. That day, my clients did not speak to me about carats or catalogues. They spoke of the years they had spent together, of what holds a couple upright, and of their wish to celebrate this with an object that would endure.
I listened to them, taking notes, and then we leafed through a few references from the Art Deco period: straight lines, crisp angles, an elegance that never tries to please at all costs. Very quickly, the style became obvious. These geometric forms held something of their own story: rigour, gentleness and a great deal of light.
Drawing a Staircase of Light
The drawing is always the moment I enjoy most. Paper costs nothing, and it allows every kind of boldness. I sketched several proposals, and we kept the one inspired by a stepped motif, so characteristic of the 1920s. The rows of stones descend in tiers, like the steps of a grand theatre staircase.
This Art Deco diamond ring had to remain a ring of today, however. I therefore softened certain volumes and took great care over the comfort of the underside of the mount, so that it could be worn every day without ever being a nuisance. A piece of jewellery with this much sentimental value should not sleep in a box. My clients were involved in every decision, from the width of the rows to the height of the ring on the finger.
From Wax to Casting
Once the design was approved, I sculpted the model in wax, stroke by stroke, constantly checking the regularity of the steps. This is where the precision of the ring is decided: if the wax is true, the metal will be too. The piece was then cast, and finished by hand to refine every edge.
Palladium White Gold and 80 Diamonds: Choosing the Materials
For the metal, palladium white gold was an almost natural choice. It has a clear, crisp brilliance with no yellow warmth, which suits the Art Deco spirit perfectly. It is also durable, which matters when you imagine a piece of jewellery worn for decades. Its pure lines lend themselves well to this kind of geometric work, where the slightest approximation would show.
For the stones, I selected 80 diamonds one by one. I examined them under the loupe, compared them, and sometimes set them aside, until I had a perfectly harmonious whole. In a pavé of this kind, no single stone should draw the eye on its own: it is the whole that must sparkle. For me, these diamonds tell of the richness of a love that has weathered the years, and I wanted them to do so with accuracy rather than ostentation.
Setting and Polishing in My Workshop near Nantes
Next comes the most meticulous stage: the setting. Each diamond was placed in its seat, adjusted, then secured with absolute precision. One works under the loupe, almost holding one's breath. A badly seated stone means a missing glint of light. Eighty stones means eighty small decisions that must not be missed.
Once the last diamond was in place, I began the polishing. I entrust it to no one, because it is the polishing that reveals the sharpness of the design. The surfaces of the staircase must be smooth, the angles clean, the reflections crisp. Little by little, the ring found its light, and I knew it was ready.
All of this took place in my workshop-boutique, from the selection of the stones to the final assembly. This way of working allows me to follow the bespoke ring from start to finish, and to offer my clients a personal experience, far from anonymous production lines. When you make a piece of jewellery near Nantes, a short distance from those who will wear it, everything can be adjusted right up to the last moment.
Presenting the Ring
On the day of the presentation, I placed the ring on its case and let the light of the workshop do the rest. There was a brief silence, of the kind I know well and love dearly. Then came smiles, glances exchanged, and that quiet emotion of people recognising their own story in an object.
The stepped motif caught the light from every angle, exactly as I had hoped. The geometric lines evoked the 1920s, while keeping the contemporary touch that makes each of my creations unique. My clients held in their hands a precious piece of jewellery that reflected them, and above all, a memory.
This is what I love about my craft: turning a wish, a few words and a few memories into an object that will outlast time. If you too have a jewellery project in mind, an anniversary to celebrate or simply an idea that is still taking shape, come and talk to me at the workshop in Saint-Sébastien-sur-Loire. We will take the time to look together at what might come to life.
