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Pendants · 3 June 2024

Mimosa Leaf Brooch in 18-Carat Yellow Gold: A Workshop Dream

Mimosa Leaf Brooch in 18-Carat Yellow Gold: A Workshop Dream

Published on by Olivier Maupas-Sehikyan · Pendants

mimosa leaf brooch in 18-carat yellow gold, Freemason jewel

A workshop dream: the mimosa leaf brooch

There are pieces of jewellery that one designs for someone else, and others that one carries within long before creating them. This mimosa leaf brooch in 18-carat yellow gold belongs to the second kind. For a long time it remained a dream, an image that kept coming back to visit me between commissions, amid the files, the tools laid out on the bench and the hum of the workshop.

I am fascinated by the delicate beauty of nature. A branch that bends without breaking, a leaf lit through by the light: such tiny details move me more than any grand scene. One day, I decided to turn this passion into a precious piece, shaped by my own hands in my workshop in Saint-Sébastien-sur-Loire, near Nantes. Here is how it came to life.

Drawing the leaf, choosing 18-carat yellow gold

Everything begins with a pencil. I sketched the mimosa leaf with great care, then went back to it again and again. Every curve was considered, every detail planned, so that the drawing would capture the natural elegance of this very particular leaf. This stage is invisible in the finished jewel, and yet it is its foundation. One hesitant line at the outset, and all the grace of the design is lost along the way.

Once the design was settled, I had to choose the metal. I settled on 18-carat yellow gold, first for its richness: it has that golden warmth reminiscent of mimosa blossoms. Then for its durability. A brooch is worn, rubs against fabric, moves from a coat to a jacket, and it must pass through the years without tiring. A well-made yellow gold jewel is, above all, a promise of longevity.

Why a brooch?

The brooch is a jewel apart. It does not wrap around a finger or a wrist: it is placed, positioned, moved. One chooses it one morning, pins it to the lapel of a jacket or to a collar, and it changes the whole impression of an outfit. I love this freedom, and it suited a light leaf perfectly, as though laid there by chance.

From casting to veining: a handmade gold jewel

The first stage of the making was to melt the gold. In the heat of the crucible, the metal becomes liquid, almost alive, before being worked into a fine sheet of gold. It is a moment I particularly love: the raw material takes its first shape, still silent, but already full of promise.

This sheet of metal was then cut out following my design. There is no margin for error here. Every cut was made with extreme precision, as close as possible to the line, so that each detail would be rendered perfectly. One holds one's breath, the tool advances slowly, and the outline of the mimosa gradually appears, like a silhouette emerging from the mist.

It then remained to bring it to life. The gold leaf was carefully shaped to acquire a realistic texture. Using special tools, I engraved fine, delicate veins that imitate the natural structure of the leaf. This is when the metal ceases to be a simple plate and becomes botanical: the light catches every groove, plays across the relief, and one could almost believe one felt the leaf tremble at the slightest breath.

Polishing and the gold pin

Then comes polishing, the most patient gesture of all. The leaf was polished at length to give it its brilliance. At first matt, the metal gradually brightens and returns the light with a softness that is a delight to the eye. The brooch was then mounted on a gold pin, so that it can be fastened easily to a garment.

This technical detail is far from trivial. A badly fastened brooch ends up at the bottom of a drawer, whereas this one is made to be lived with. Each step therefore called for meticulous attention, right through to a flawless finish, on the front and the back of the jewel alike.

The mimosa, a symbol of sensitivity and renewal

If I chose this leaf rather than another, it was not only for its beauty. In many cultures, the mimosa is a symbol of sensitivity and renewal. This slender plant, almost fragile in appearance, nonetheless holds real strength. Giving a mimosa leaf brooch can thus express the admiration one feels for someone's resilience and beauty.

A jewel is only a piece of metal as long as it says nothing. This one speaks of gentleness, and of strength too.

This is what I love about jewellery: it allows one to speak without words. A gold leaf slipped onto a lapel can thank, console, congratulate, or simply remind someone that they are precious. The meaning is not engraved in the metal; it settles in the eyes of the person who receives it, and in the way it is worn.

A brooch to wear with pride, created near Nantes

In creating this 18-carat yellow gold brooch, I wanted to capture the natural beauty of the mimosa leaf. I also sought to make a jewel that carries a deeper meaning. It is a piece to be worn with pride and appreciated as much for its beauty as for its symbolism. It will be pinned to a winter coat, a pale blouse, a scarf, and each time it will tell the same story: that of a workshop dream made real.

When I look at it today, I see every gesture again: the pencil, the crucible, the cutting, the veining, the polishing. This is the great reward of this craft. A jewel that begins as a slightly mad idea ends up having weight in the hand, shining, truly existing.

If you too carry the image of a jewel inspired by nature, a leaf, a flower or a branch, come and tell me about it at my workshop in Saint-Sébastien-sur-Loire, near Nantes. We will take our time to look, to draw and to talk, simply, over a coffee and a few sketches.